51AVÊÓƵ

A new wool summit brought together by The Great British Wool Revival shone a spotlight on the supply chain.Ìý

With a global focus on sustainability, you will be hard pressed to find a better natural fibre than wool.Ìý

Over the years, though, the demand for wool has been on a rollercoaster – and so has the price.Ìý

The , a campaign run by Fashion Roundtable in collaboration with The King's Foundation, is aimed at creating stronger supply chains between the farming and fashion sectors, focusing on reducing fast fashion and putting value back on one of our most sustainable resources – wool.Ìý

In the first of its kind, the revival's wool summit took place at Dumfries House in Ayrshire, Scotland, on May 19 and 20, bringing together key names from across the fashion and farming spheres.Ìý

British Wool chair Jim Robertson spoke alongside NFU's David Barton and NFU Scotland livestock policy manager Lucy McGuillvary on ‘The business of wool: is it a new era?' panel.

Mr Robertson said once upon time we had wool farms in this country. Such farms are still present in the likes of Australia, but over the years the guaranteed price for wool disappeared and the focus turned to breeding for better meat rather than wool.Ìý

MORE ON WOOL: OPINION: Great British Wool Revival - "Wars, trade deals and royal marriages have been negotiated because of wool"

Demand for wool

What we need, he said, is find demand for different uses of wool.Ìý

Ms McGuillvary, who grew up on a Scottish upland farm, said wool is the end product and other key benefits of sheep farming need to be considered to be able to tell a whole-rounded story, such as sheep in less favoured areas which cannot grow crops -areas that are suited to livestock grazing.

"There are all the other benefits too, such as rural communities" she said.

"Sheep that are on these hills are keeping lots of industries going.Ìý

"Landscapes would not look like this if no livestock were grazing them.Ìý

"Everything has to work in harmony."

Mr Barton said there are many who are against livestock farming but made an example of his own mixed farming set up and highlighted the increase in organic matter from ruminants.

"Some would like to see livestock disappear, but a healthy system needs ruminants – and it is truly sustainable. Where there is sheep there is wool."

The heritage of wool and its place in our history is also a valued part of the story – and a key marketing point, said Ms McGuillvary.Ìý

Plus, she said, as an industry, shearing is a ‘pinnacle moment of the year'.

But ultimately, farming is a business, and the sector needs to look at ‘what can be done and how we can capitalise'.Ìý

With a focus on how to market the wool industry against man-made fibres, Mr Robertson questioned the global net zero and sustainability mission when we have one of the most natural resources at our fingertips.Ìý

And, consumers need to reflect on purchasing habits.

He said: "As a farmer, I am always getting the finger pointed at me, but we all need to ask ourselves questions.Ìý

"Breeding decisions are based on the market climate – if there was a market for wool, it would impact breeding decisions and once it has value, the business outlook changes."

British designers and buyers took to the stage for the next panel to look at the adoption of British wool.Ìý

Joshua Scacheri, design director at Gieves and Hawkes on Saville Row said customers want that British experience and British brands are pushing British made products.Ìý

• Read more about wool and wool prices on Farmers Guardian here

AdidasÌý

But it is also about holding leading brands accountable and using their power – Margaret Ann, CEO of Harris Tweed Hebrides spoke of the collaboration with Adidas and the pull of the story and information behind such designs.Ìý

She said: "We should not be choosing recycled polyester over sustainable, small batch, traceable material."

But how can we really hook consumers in?Ìý

Sarah Turner, founder of handmade British wool laundry and natural body care products, Little Beau Sheep, said her customers care about provenance, but it is also a re-education of what wool can be used for.

"It is about raising extra awareness of what is going on with British farmers and getting the message across," she said.

"We know wool is good for making jumpers or rugs but there are other uses."

LISTEN NOW:

Ìý

Harriet Fletcher-Gilhuys, textiles researcher at Fashion Roundtable, said customers are also ‘exhausted' when it comes to trying to do the right thing when it comes to sustainable purchasing choices.Ìý

They are ‘fed up with greenwashing' and go ‘round and round in circles and eventually give up'.

Simple labelling, human stories and changing national habits by putting value back on a product that is sustainable rather than disposable all came into focus too, but as Great British Wool Revival founder Tamara Cincik said, the revival is about dual income streams for farmers and making sure we do not lose skills that have been part of our heritage for centuries.

She said: "It is a recalibration.

"The Great British Wool Revival Summit hosted in collaboration with Fashion Roundtable and The King's Foundation was a groundbreaking two-day event, a true groundswell of enthusiasm and shared values. It brought together thought leaders, from farmers, designers, brands and policy makers to discuss the future of British wool in what was once a very broken and fragmented system.

"The first of many, this summit and initiative has set a precedent for a series of future events, that explore craft, homegrown fibres and best practice to re-evaluate how we engage with our natural resources. We are so excited to see where this will take us into the future."